FineWine

Here we go again?2008 Bordeaux

Mon, 04 May 2009 11:41:53 GMT

2008 is an interesting year in Bordeaux by any standard. Set against a backgrop of the worst economic crisis to hit the modern world for 70 years, it was also one of the most unheralded vintages of...

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Sat, 04 Jul 2009 22:07:52 GMT

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When Prohibition hit Wine Country

Fri, 03 Jul 2009 07:00:00 GMT

When the Rivers Ran Red An Amazing Story of Courage and Triumph in America's Wine Country By Vivienne Sosnowski (Palgrave Macmillan; 228 pages; $26.95) From Demon to Darling A Legal History of Wine in America By Richard Mendelson (University of California...

Hong Kong Diaries 2009

Mon, 01 Jun 2009 11:19:55 GMT

As we prepare for our second auction of the year in Hong Kong in 2009, I thought it was a good time to look back on a couple of most noteworthy events related to the great city of Hong Kong. The...

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The Bargain Shelf

Fri, 03 Jul 2009 07:00:00 GMT

2008 Biokult Nieder?sterreich Gr?ner Veltliner ($12) The hook: A green midsummer's dream. The details: When a sun-kissed day at the beach gives way to an outdoor evening with friends and fresh seafood, a chilled bottle of this organically grown, Austrian...

Bordeaux Horizontals

Mon, 01 Jun 2009 11:23:38 GMT

Recently and on separate occasions, I had the good fortune of experiencing two of Bordeaux?s most heralded vintages in the past twenty-five years, 1986 and 2005. First, let?s talk about 1986. One...

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Chalk Hill offers views to match the wines

Fri, 03 Jul 2009 07:00:00 GMT

My tasting room hostess at Chalk Hill Estate has a dream: to be reincarnated as one of her employer's horses. The equines are so pampered by co-owner Peggy Furth that they might as well be living in a spa (they even get water therapy, she enviously points out)...

Corrupting the Wine Market With Spin

Tue, 30 Jun 2009 12:40:14 GMT

One of the greatest joys of working in wine public relations has been the remarkably collegial, helpful and generally encouraging attitude of my peers. In the 20 some odd years I've worked in this area of the wine industry I can't recall a single instance in which I was disappointed with my personal interaction with other wine PR folks. And I can't count the number of times other PR people have helped me in significant ways.

Still, there is something of a negative connotation associated with the idea of being a Public Relations Professional, PR Guy, Flack, Hired Gun. Honestly, I really don't care. You can call me and my peers anything you want, but we'll keep smiling and doing our work of corrupting the market with spin.

It's those smiles I'm looking forward to seeing tonight as the newly reformed Academy of Wine Communicators gather for an event at the CIA at Greystone in Napa Valley. If you work in Wine PR in any capacity, I suggest you attend. At the very least you'll discover that you really do have a network of peers who take their work seriously and are likely to help you do a better job at your own.

The AWC first formed I'm guessing about a decade or so ago. But it didn't get very far if I recall. The new incarnation is being driven by Michael Wangbickler of Balzac Communications, one the oldest and most respected Wine PR firms in America. Michael appears to me to be enthusiastic in all things he does. I suspect that character trait will be on view as he guides the AWC down the road.

The American wine publicist needs all the help we can get. This is not an easy job if your client or employer is a winery. Consider that there are more than 5,000 wineries in the United States alone. They all do the same thing: They ferment fruit juice, put it in a bottle, try to put an attractive label on it and try to sell it to consumers or retailers or restaurants. Trying to use smart public relations techniques to set your client's wines or employer's wines apart is not easy.

Interestingly, you'd think that under such competitive circumstances you'd see PR flacks like me and my peers use some pretty gimmicky techniques. But you don't. Occasionally you see a funeral for corks or something like this. But it's generally straight ahead, traditional PR using the new and old tools of the trade and forming relationships with writers to whom we try to pitch compelling story ideas.

It's not surprising, I hope, that frustration can often results from the attempt to be fresh and unique and different and compelling in your PR campaigns and techniques. This is why I think the Academy of Wine Communicators is a good idea. Having a vibrant and active resource of peers to gather with and bounce ideas off of and to learn from seems to be a critical aspect of one's professional development.

Again, if you work in or around wine PR, I suggest you look into the Academy of Wine Communicators.

Chronicle recommends: Napa Valley Zinfandel

Fri, 03 Jul 2009 07:00:00 GMT

Zinfandel can be grown in many climates, often from warmer regions that produce very ripe, juicy, big wines. Napa Valley - with Zinfandel planted as a very minor player - has mountain vineyards that receive plenty of sun but not as much heat. Napa Valley...

Choice Tables: Alive and Evolving: the Paris Bistro

Sat, 04 Jul 2009 04:01:59 GMT

Offering reliable and affordable food, the bistro choices are better than they have been in years.

Vinography Images: Highlights

Sat, 04 Jul 2009 05:32:41 GMT

Highlights
Vineyards become the most dramatic at the end of the day, when, like mountain ridges, they can be caught by the last light of the sun. I love this image, both for the way the light rakes across the rows of vines, but also for the subtle depth of the landscape in the haze beyond the foreground. The willingness to wait for moments like this separates the average photographer from pros like Andy. -- Alder Yarrow

INSTRUCTIONS:
Download this image by right-clicking on the image and selecting "save link as" or "save target as" and then select the desired location on your computer to save the image. Mac users can also just click the image to open the full size view and drag that to their desktops.

To set the image as your desktop wallpaper, Mac users should follow these instructions, while PC users should follow these.

PRINTS:
If you are interested in owning an archive quality, limited edition print of this image please contact photographer Andy Katz through his web site.

ABOUT VINOGRAPHY IMAGES:
Vinography regularly features images by photographer Andy Katz for readers' personal use as desktop backgrounds or screen savers. We hope you enjoy them. Please respect the copyright on these images.

Bites: Restaurant Review: BioMio, Copenhagen

Sat, 04 Jul 2009 04:03:03 GMT

The dishes at this entirely organic restaurant are vegetable-loaded, simple and tasty.

2007 J. Rochioli "River Block" Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley

Fri, 03 Jul 2009 05:46:11 GMT

It took me a long time in my evolution as a wine lover to truly understand the amount of money and sweat and energy that goes into building a world class winery over decades, even centuries.

Many wine lovers early in their education (and in their earning power) are often flummoxed by prices for wines that start to head north of $80 or $90 per bottle. Should they pursue their love of wine long enough to really learn (and see for themselves) what kind of work goes into some of the world's best vineyards, and to taste the wine that they produce, such prices no longer seem outrageous.

Indeed, there are some wineries and vineyards in the world that seem to produce wines of such quality and consistency as to be nearly magical. In Europe, and especially France, such pieces of land are often given special designations, such as Grand Cru, to signify their quality.

There are very few plots of land in California that might be accorded Grand Cru status, should Americans decide to institute some method of classifying vineyards for quality, if only because many of California's vineyards are so relatively new. There are some very few, however, that have definitively proven their distinctiveness and quality over several decades.

Unquestionably, the first vineyard on my list of such wineries and vineyard sites would be Rochioli Vineyards in the Russian River Valley. Tucked in between Westside Road and the meandering curves of the Russian River as it heads south past Healdsburg, Rochioli Vineyards produces some of the most sought after Pinot Noir in California.

Since the early part of the 20th century, the 162 acres of flats and sloping hillsides that run down towards this particular bend in the river have been farmed by someone with the last name Rochioli. After working the land for decades, Joe Rochioli, Sr., began buying up the land, bit by bit. By the 1950's, he had been joined by his son Joe Rochioli, Jr. and together they spent several decades growing grapes that were sold to wineries throughout Sonoma County.

It wasn't until the early Seventies, however, that the farm produced Pinot Noir. Like many long-running family winegrowers, however, eventually the hankering to make their own wine started to germinate, and in 1976 Joe Jr. made a bunch of Pinot Noir at one of his customers' wineries.

By the early Eighties, the Russian River Valley had clearly proven its potential for growing Burgundian varietals, and Pinot Noir in particular, and the Rochioli's saw a gradual increase in the demand for their fruit. One small winery named Williams Selyem became a particularly good customer, and the single vineyard wines they made from Rochioli fruit rapidly made their fortunes and brought Rochioli to national and international attention.

Around this time, Joe Jr.'s son Tom had grown dissatisfied with his business career and decided to return to the family business. Capitalizing on the rapidly increasing demand for the family's fruit, Tom helped transform the Rochioli ranch from a farm to a full working winery. With the help of another of their customers, Gary Farrell, the family produced its first vintage under the Rochioli brand in 1982, a 150 case production of Pinot Noir from a vineyard plot known as the West Block.

Within a few years, Tom had taken over as winemaker, a position which he continues to hold today, even as his father Joe Jr. continues to direct the management of the family's vineyards.

Producing about 13,000 cases of wine each year, Rochioli produces appellation designated wines under the Rochioli Vineyards label, and single vineyard and block-designated wines under the J. Rochioli label. These latter wines, including this River Block Pinot Noir, are available only to their mailing list customers.

Tom Rochioli's winemaking style, as well as his entire family's philosophy of wine production are based in the traditions of Burgundy, and in particular the Cote d'Or. Exacting quality standards, clonal diversity, and vineyard management techniques produce top quality fruit, which is then babied through a traditional hands-off winemaking process that attempts to manipulate the wine as little as possible through its lifecycle.

More so than almost any other Pinot Noir in California, Rochioli wines are built to age, and do so beautifully. I have had the pleasure of drinking bottles dating back to 1990 in the past few years, and they are holding up magnificently. Whether they have the 50+ year longevity of old world Burgundy, only time will tell, but if any Pinot Noir America will likely age in that fashion, it will most certainly be Rochioli.

Whenever possible I avoid favoritism, as I believe my life and the lives of my readers benefit from a diverse exploration and recommendation of wines. However, when it comes right down to it, there are few wines in California wine that I care for more than Rochioli's block designated Pinot Noirs, especially when they are properly aged for a decade or two.

Tasting Notes:
Medium ruby in color, this wine has a bright, bold nose of cranberry and spice aromas that you can smell long before your nose is in the glass. On the palate the wine has a gorgeous glassy silk texture that conveys an impression of coolness, while all but bursting with bright, juicy raspberry fruit and a deep complexion of mulling spices and fresh herbs that linger in a very long finish. Incredibly well balanced and poised, this wine has fantastic acidity that makes it a joy to drink now and a sure bet for a couple decades of aging.

Food Pairing:
I'd love to drink this wine with a crostata of goat cheese and sauteed chanterelle mushrooms with fresh thyme.

Overall Score: around 9.5

How Much?: $85

This wine is available for purchase on the Internet.

Journeys: Japanese Baseball: Root, Root, Root and Buy Me Some Eel

Sat, 04 Jul 2009 04:03:42 GMT

Attending a baseball game provides an illuminating peek into Japanese culture and an opportunity to taste some culinary curiosities.

The Joy of Sp?tlese: Tasting the 2008 German and Austrian Vintage from Terry Theise

Thu, 02 Jul 2009 07:09:36 GMT

The wine world needs more people like Terry Theise, the man I call the Shakespeare of Terroir.

It's so easy to get caught up in the stuffy, over-intellectualized world of wine geekery, where people endlessly debate the smallest aspects of winemaking or vintage ratings. All of us who spend enough time talking, thinking, and reading about wine get sucked into that world occasionally. But I find myself attracted to those who fall into that trap with the least regularity.

As luck would have it, there are several simple cures for me readily at hand whenever I forget that wine is first and foremost, fun. One of them arrives in two volumes every year with the name Terry Theise boldly printed across the top, usually accompanied by a pretty picture.

Theise is one of the genius-fools of the wine world, who despite their immense knowledge and experience, manage to talk and write and think about wine with the boundless and pretensionless enthusiasm of a beginner. Picking up a Theise catalog is like opening one of the crazy manifestos that some Berkeley radicals mimeographed and sold in independent bookstores in the Sixties. Part rant, part poetry, part reference manual, and part literature, Theise's catalogs are simply a hoot.

Case in point, one of my favorite of his many descriptions of terroir:

"Soil...is a wine's DNA. It is the fundamental building block of that wine's identity. Elvis is Elvis. Some years it rained and he was thin Elvis; some years it was hot and he was fat Elvis. He was sometimes drunk Elvis, sometimes sleepy Elvis, or cornball, sleazy, charismatic or horny Elvis. In fact it's safe to say that he was every imaginable variety of Elvis his temperament could contrive. But always, he was Elvis."

Theise is madly passionately in love with wine and it shows in everything he writes -- he may well be my favorite wine writer, and he doesn't even get paid for it.

Theise has been bringing German and Austrian wine (and Champagne) to the States since... well, it seems like since before time immemorial. I actually don't know exactly when he started doing his thing, but his name has become synonymous with the highest quality wines from both countries. It is not fair to compare two unique and talented individuals, but a shorthand that helps me explain Theise to some people often suggests that he's the Kermit Lynch of Germany and Austria.

Now, about the wines.

I had a chance to attend a tasting on Monday of many of his selections from the much heralded 2008 vintage. Now, I haven't been carefully following vintages in Germany and Austria for many years years, so you'll have to take my commentary on the vintage as a whole with a grain of salt and look elsewhere for authoritative pronunciations of the soundness of the year. Having said that, 2008 pretty much looks like it rocks across the board. The wines are rich, bold, and have a depth to them that is quite striking.

Sadly I was time pressured at this tasting so I didn't get to taste everything I wanted to -- I tried to focus on the Kabinett and Sp?tlese wines, as those tend to be what I drink, and I threw in some Gruner Veltiners and an occasional Scheurebe just for fun.

As usual with these wines, some of my favorites are really smashing deals, and if I didn't have to buy new brakes for my car, I'd be plunking down for a couple of cases of this stuff. Yummy!

Enjoy.

Austria

WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5
2007 Br?ndlmayer Riesling Z?binger Heiligenstein, Kamptal, Austria. $43. Where to buy?
2007 Br?ndlmayer Riesling Z?binger Heiligenstein "Lyra", Kamptal, Austria. $40. Where to buy?

WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5
2008 Alzinger Riesling Hollerin Smaragd, Wachau, Austria. $65
2008 Br?ndlmayer Riesling "Kamptaler Terrassen", Kamptal, Austria. $28
2007 Br?ndlmayer Riesling Steinmassel, Kamptal, Austria. $39
2008 Hirsch Gr?ner Veltliner Heiligenstein, Kremstal, Austria. $28
2007 Hirsch Gr?ner Veltliner Lamm, Kremstal, Austria. $54
2007 Hirsch Riesling Heiligenstein, Kremstal, Austria. $54
2008 Salomon Undhof Riesling Pfaffenberg, Kremstal, Austria. $20

WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9
2007 Hirsch Riesling Gaisberg, Kremstal, Austria. $52
2007 Nikolaihof Riesling Vom Stein Smaragd, Wachau, Austria. $80
2008 Salomon Undhof Sal'mon Riesling, Kremstal, Austria. $21
2008 Salomon Undhof Riesling K?gl, Kremstal, Austria. $28
2008 Schloss Gobelsburg Gr?ner Veltliner Renner, Kremstal, Austria. $41
2008 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Gaisberg, Kremstal, Austria. $39

WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9
2008 Hirsch Riesling Z?bing, Kremstal, Austria. $28
2008 Nigl Riesling Kremsleiten, Kremstal, Austria. $45
2008 Schloss Gobelsburg Gr?ner Veltliner Steinsetz, Kremstal, Austria. $30
2008 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling "Gobelsburger", Kremstal, Austria. $21
2008 Schwarzb?ck Riesling P?cken, Weinviertel, Austria. $23
2008 Setzer Gr?ner Veltliner "8000", Weinviertel, Austria. $49
2008 Setzer Riesling, Weinviertel, Austria. $30

WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5
2008 Nigl Gr?ner Veltliner Freiheit, Kremstal, Austria. $23
2008 Nigl Gr?ner Veltliner "Privat", Kremstal, Austria. $54
2008 Nigl Riesling Senftenberger Piri, Kremstal, Austria. $45

WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5
2008 Heidi Schr?ck Furmint,, Austria. $26
2008 Nikolaihof Riesling Vom Stein Federspiel, Wachau, Austria. $43

Germany

WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9.5 AND 10
2008 M?ller-Catoir Mandelring Scheurebe Sp?tlese, Pfalz, Germany. $60.

WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5
2008 D?nnhoff Oberh?user Br?cke Riesling Sp?tlese, Nahe, Germany. $69. Where to buy?
2008 Kerpen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany. $24.
2008 Kruger-Rumpf M?nsterer Dautenpfl?nzer Riesling Sp?tlese, Nahe, Germany. $30. Where to buy?
2008 Leitz R?desheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau, Germany. $21. Where to buy?
2008 Leitz R?desheimer Magdalenenkreuz Riesling Sp?tlese, Rheingau, Germany. $24.
2008 Meulenhof Erdener Pr?lat Riesling Sp?tlese, Mosel, Germany. $26.
2008 Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Sp?tlese* Alte Reben, Mosel, Germany. $26.
2008 M?ller-Catoir Mussbach Riesling Kabinett, Pfalz, Germany. $39. Where to buy?
2008 M?ller-Catoir B?rgergarten Riesling Sp?tlese, Pfalz, Germany. $60. Where to buy?
2008 Strub Niersteiner Paterberg Riesling Sp?tlese, Rheinhessen, Germany. $26.
2008 Wagner-Stempel Siefersheimer H?llberg Riesling Sp?tlese, Rheinhessen, Germany. $45.
2008 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Sp?tlese #10, Mosel, Germany. $41. Where to buy?

WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5
2008 D?nnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Sp?tlese, Nahe, Germany. $50
2008 D?nnhoff Schlossb?ckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Sp?tlese, Nahe, Germany. $64
2008 Gysler Weinheimer Riesling Kabinett, Rheinhessen, Germany. $21
2008 Kerpen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Sp?tlese, Mosel, Germany. $29
2008 Kerpen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Sp?tlese* Artist Label, Mosel, Germany. $34
2008 Kruger-Rumpf M?nsterer Pittersberg Riesling Sp?tlese, Nahe, Germany. $31
2008 Leitz R?desheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Sp?tlese, Rheingau, Germany. $39
2008 Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany. $21
2008 Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Sp?tlese*, Mosel, Germany. $26
2007 Minges Burrweiler Schlossgarten Riesling Sp?tlese, Pfalz, Germany. $30
2008 M?ller-Catoir Herrenletten Riesling Sp?tlese trocken,, Germany. $60
2008 Reuscher-Haart Piesporter Goldtr?pfchen Riesling Sp?tlese #10, Mosel, Germany. $26
2008 Reuscher-Haart Piesporter Goldtr?pfchen Riesling Sp?tlese #12, Mosel, Germany. $26
2008 Schmitt-Wagner Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Sp?tlese, Mosel, Germany. $28
2008 Strub Niersteiner Br?ckchen Riesling Kabinett, Rheinhessen, Germany. $21
2008 von Othegraven (Saar) Ockfen Bockstein Riesling Sp?tlese Erste Lage, Mosel, Germany. $50
2008 Weegm?ller Haardter Herrenletten Scheurebe Sp?tlese, Pfalz, Germany. $36

WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9
2008 D?nnhoff Kreuznacher Kr?tenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett, Nahe, Germany. $31
2008 Eugen M?ller Forster Kirchenst?ck Riesling Sp?tlese trocken "Cyriakus",, Germany. $40
2008 Eugen M?ller Forster Pechstein Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken "Terra Cara",, Germany. $23
2008 Geil Bechtheimer Geyersberg Riesling Sp?tlese, Rheinhessen, Germany. $24
2008 Kerpen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett feinherb Artist Label, Mosel, Germany. $25
2008 Kerpen Bernkasteler Bratenh?fchen Riesling Sp?tlese, Mosel, Germany. $29
2008 Kruger-Rumpf Scheurebe Kabinett, Nahe, Germany. $23
2007 Kruger-Rumpf M?nsterer Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett, Nahe, Germany. $24
2008 Kruger-Rumpf Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Sp?tlese, Nahe, Germany. $31
2008 Leitz R?desheimer Berg Rottland Riesling trocken "Alte Reben", Rheingau, Germany. $56
2008 Leitz Dragonstone Riesling, Rheingau, Germany. $19
2008 Loewen Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Sp?tlese, Mosel, Germany. $33
2008 Loewen Th?rnicher Ritsch Riesling Sp?tlese, Mosel, Germany. $33
2008 Messmer Burrweiler Sch?wer Riesling Sp?tlese, Pfalz, Germany. $43
2008 Meulenhof Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Sp?tlese, Mosel, Germany. $24
2008 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling "Rotlay", Mosel, Germany. $23
2008 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling "Schmitt", Mosel, Germany. $23
2008 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Sp?tlese "Anrecht", Mosel, Germany. $31
2008 Weingart Schloss F?rstenberg Riesling Kabinett, Mittelrhein, Germany. $26

WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9
2008 D?nnhoff Estate Riesling, Nahe, Germany. $25
2008 Eugen M?ller Forster Mariengarten Riesling Kabinett, Pfalz, Germany. $20
2008 Kerpen Graacher Domprobst Riesling Sp?tlese trocken, Mosel, Germany. $30
2008 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany. $26
2008 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Sp?tlese, Mosel, Germany. $31

WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5
2008 Biffar Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Kabinett, Pfalz, Germany. $24
2008 Geil Bechtheimer Rosengarten Riesling Kabinett, Rheinhessen, Germany. $18
2008 Joh. Jos. Christoffel ?rziger W?rzgarten Riesling Sp?tlese, Mosel, Germany. $36
2008 Kruger-Rumpf Scheurebe trocken, Nahe, Germany. $23
2008 Leitz Eins Zwei Dry "3", Rheingau, Germany. $17
2008 Weegm?ller Haardter B?rgergarten Riesling Kabinett, Pfalz, Germany. $25

WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5
2008 Kruger-Rumpf Scharlachberg Riesling Grosses Gew?chs, Nahe, Germany. $26
2008 Kruger-Rumpf Riesling halbtrocken, Nahe, Germany. $23
2008 Messmer Riesling halbtrocken, Pfalz, Germany. $19

WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8
2008 Bernhard Hackenheimer Kirchberg Riesling Kabinett, Rheinhessen, Germany. $22
2008 Weegm?ller Cuv?e Fleur, Pfalz, Germany. $24

Explorer: Tasting Slovenian Cuisine Right at the Source

Sat, 04 Jul 2009 04:10:28 GMT

The Karst, in the country?s southwest region, is known for its gastronomic heritage and family farms that welcome travelers.

The Best Pinot Noir in California?: Tasting Pinot Days 2009

Tue, 30 Jun 2009 06:32:46 GMT

The Pinot Days grand tasting event, which took place yesterday at Fort Mason in San Francisco, brings together one of the largest collections of Pinot Noir producers in North America for the tasting pleasure of the public.

I was interested to see whether attendance at this year's event would be noticeably lower, but if it was, I couldn't tell. The place seemed just as packed as ever, which is a good thing -- the California wine industry needs all the help it can get in this recession.

So needless to say, I was in good company tasting yesterday with 3500 of my wine loving friends.

I use such events, comprehensive as they are, as a means of judging the overall quality of the vintage in California, if it is possible to generalize in such a way as this. At this most recent tasting, the 2007 Pinot Noirs were on display, and I found them generally quite good, with excellent acidity, bright fruit, and, increasingly less ripe than past vintages.

The industry thankfully continues to dial back the extraction and ripeness from levels that seemed to peak in the 2002 and 2003 vintages. This is especially true for the wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands which tend to be some of the most overripe Pinot Noirs made in Northern California. Wines from Garys' Vineyard, Pisoni Vineyard, and Rosella's Vineyard, continue to be moderated to saner levels of fruit and alcohol than in the past.

I've called out the few nice roses I found as well as a couple white wines that were on offer.

Enjoy.

WHITE WINES THAT SNUCK INTO THE TASTING
2007 Chasseur Lorenzo Chardonnay, Russian River Valley. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $55.
2006 Bjornstad Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay, Russian River Valley. Score: around 9. Cost: $40
2006 Fort Ross Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $32
2007 Hirsch Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $50

PINK WINES
2008 Clos Pepe Rose of Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $18
2008 Fort Ross Rose of Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast. Score: around 9. Cost: $16
2008 Macrostie Rose of Pinot Noir, Sonoma County. Score: around 9. Cost: $20
2008 Inman Family Vineyards Rose of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $25
2007 Albiouness Rose of Pinot Noir, Carneros. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $15
2008 Lynmar Rose of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley. Score: between 8 and 8.5. Cost: $20
2008 Bjornstad Rose of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley. Score: between 8 and 8.5. Cost: $18

AND NOW LET'S GET DOWN TO BUSINESS:

WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5
2005 Clos Pepe, Santa Rita Hills. $48. Where to buy?
2000 Clos Pepe, Santa Rita Hills. $48.
2004 Derbes Les Pinots, Russian River Valley. $45. Where to buy?
2007 Morgan Hat Trick, Santa Lucia Highlands. $62. Where to buy?
2006 Woodenhead Wiley Vineyard, Anderson Valley. $60. Where to buy?

WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5
2007 Auteur Sonoma Stage, Sonoma Coast. $50. Where to buy?
2007 Belle Glos Taylor Lane, Sonoma Coast. $45. Where to buy?
1997 Calera Reed, Mt. Harlan. $65.
2007 Chasseur Umino, Russian River Valley. $60.
2007 Chasseur Blank, Russian River Valley. $60.
2007 Clos Pepe, Santa Rita Hills. $48. Where to buy?
2006 Clos Pepe, Santa Rita Hills. $48. Where to buy?
2006 Derbes, Russian River Valley. $47. Where to buy?
2006 Domaine Serene Evenstad, Willamette Valley, OR. $58. Where to buy?
2007 Failla Occidental Ridge, Sonoma Coast. $60.
2006 Fort Ross Pinotage, Sonoma Coast. $32. Where to buy?
2007 Freeman Vineyards Akiko's Cuvee, Sonoma Coast. $52.
2006 Hirsch, Sonoma Coast. $60. Where to buy?
2007 Jim Ball Signature, Anderson Valley. $45. Where to buy?
2006 Keller Estate El Coro, Sonoma Coast. $52.
2006 Morgan Double "L" Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands. $62. Where to buy?
2006 Morgan Rosella's, Santa Lucia Highlands. $85. Where to buy?
2006 Scherrer, Sonoma County. $35. Where to buy?
2006 Scherrer, Russian River Valley. $40. Where to buy?
2007 Woodenhead Humboldt County, Mendocino. $34.
2007 Woodenhead, Russian River Valley. $40.

WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9
2007 August West Graham Family, Russian River Valley. $50
2007 Auteur Manchester Ridge, Mendocino Ridge. $60
2007 Auteur Shea Vineyard, Willamette Valley, OR. $60
2007 Balletto Burnside Road, Russian River Valley. $36
2007 Belle Glos Clark & Telephone Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley. $45
2007 Bjornstad Hellenthal, Sonoma Coast. $40
2006 Calera Ryan, Mt. Harlan. $40
2006 Calera Mills, Mt. Harlan. $45
2007 Chasseur, Russian River Valley. $40
2007 Clos Saron Home Vineyard, Sierra Foothills. $45
2007 Dain Savage Juliet, Anderson Valley. $45
2005 Domaine Serene Winery Hill, Willamette Valley, OR. $75
2006 DuNah Estate, Russian River Valley. $45
2006 DuNah Sangiacomo, Sonoma Coast. $45
2007 ENO The One, Santa Lucia Highlands. $35
2006 Expression 44 Degrees - Zena's Crown, Willamette Valley, OR. $48
2006 Failla Vivian, Sonoma Coast. $70
2006 Fort Ross Symposium, Sonoma Coast. $32
2005 Fort Ross Reserve, Sonoma Coast. $49
2007 Freeman Vineyards, Russian River Valley. $41
2006 Gary Farrell Starr Ridge, Russian River Valley. $50
2006 Gary Farrell, Russian River Valley. $40
2006 Goldeneye, Anderson Valley. $55
2006 Inman Family Vineyards OGV, Russian River Valley. $52
2007 Jim Ball Booneville, Anderson Valley. $50
2006 Keller Estate La Cruz Vineyard, Sonoma Coast. $42
2006 Keller Estate Preciosos, Sonoma Coast. $$75
2007 Ketchum, Russian River Valley. $38
2007 Ketchum Estate, Russian River Valley. $48
2007 Ladd Moore Ranch, Russian River Valley. $??
2007 Le Cadeu Equinox, Willamette Valley, OR. $47
2007 Le Cadeu Rocheux, Willamette Valley, OR. $47
2006 Louis Latour Marsannay, Burgundy, France. $20
2005 Louis Latour Les Chaillots -- Aloxe-Corton, Burgundy, France. $45
2006 Lynmar, Russian River Valley. $40
2006 Lynmar Hawk Hill, Russian River Valley. $70
2007 Macrostie Wildcat Mountain, Sonoma Coast. $40
2001 Michaud, Chalone. $n/a
2007 Miner Family Vineyards Garys' Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands. $55
2007 Morgan 12 Clones, Santa Lucia Highlands. $31
2007 Perception Orsi Vineyard, Russian River Valley. $53
2006 Pey-Lucia Frisque, Santa Lucia Highlands. $39
2006 Pey-Marin, Marin County. $39
2004 Pey-Marin, Marin County. $n/a
2002 Pey-Marin, Marin County. $n/a
2006 Roesseler Ridges, Sonoma Coast. $50
2007 Rusack Reserve, Santa Rita Hills. $40
2006 Scherrer Big Brother, Sonoma Coast. $50
2006 Skewis Bush Vineyard, Russian River Valley. $48
2005 Stonier Reserve, Mornington Penninsula, Australia. $45
2005 Varner Picnic Block, Santa Cruz Mountains. $40
2006 Woodenhead Troika, North Coast. $120

WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9
2006 Albiouness Stanley Ranch, Carneros. $42
2006 Albiouness Hudson Vineyard, Carneros. $48
2006 August West Graham Family, Russian River Valley. $48
2007 August West Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands. $50
2007 Balletto Winery Block, Russian River Valley. $36
2007 Belle Glos Las Alturas, Monterey County. $45
2006 Bjornstad Hellenthal, Sonoma Coast. $
2007 Calera, Central Coast. $24
2006 Calera Mount Harlan Cuvee, Mt. Harlan. $30
2002 Calera Mills, Mt. Harlan. $55
2007 Cargasacchi Cargasacchi-Jalama, Santa Barbara County. $??
2007 Cargasacchi, Santa Rita Hills. $??
2007 Chasseur, Sonoma Coast. $40
2004 Clos Saron Home Vineyard, Sierra Foothills. $45
2006 Clos Saron Texas Hill Vineyard, Sierra Foothills. $45
2007 Coterie Fairview Road Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands. $35
2007 Dain Amber Ridge, Russian River Valley. $45
2007 Dain Savage Juliet Reserve, Anderson Valley. $45
2006 ENO Never Say Never, Santa Lucia Highlands. $32
2007 ENO The Brilliant Mind, Santa Lucia Highlands. $32
2006 Expression 44 Degrees - Willakia, Willamette Valley, OR. $48
2007 Expression 39 Degrees - Annabella, Anderson Valley. $48
2007 Freeman Vineyards, Sonoma Coast. $41
2007 Freeman Vineyards Keefer Ranch, Russian River Valley. $46
2006 Freestone Vineyards, Sonoma Coast. $75
2006 Gary Farrell Ramal Vineyard, Carneros. $50
2007 Goldeneye Migration, Anderson Valley. $34
2007 Grochau, Willamette Valley, OR. $24
2007 Grochau Cuvee des Amis, Willamette Valley, OR. $36
2007 Hirsch M, Sonoma Coast. $45
2006 Inman Family Vineyards Thorn Road Ranch, Russian River Valley. $52
2006 Lynmar Quail Hill, Russian River Valley. $60
2007 Lynmar Terre de Promisio, Sonoma Coast. $70
2006 Mac Forbes Coldstream, Yarra Valley, Australia. $50
2007 Macrostie, Carneros. $30
2007 Martinelli Zio Tony Ranch, Russian River Valley. $60
2007 Miner Family Vineyards Rosella's, Santa Lucia Highlands. $55
2006 Morgan Garys' Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands. $62
2007 Papapietro Perry 777 Clone, Russian River Valley. $70
2005 Pey-Marin, Marin County. $n/a
2003 Pey-Marin, Marin County. $n/a
2007 Rusack, Santa Maria Valley. $35
2003 Skewis Floodgate Vineyard, Anderson Valley. $n/a
2006 Tondre, Santa Lucia Highlands. $43
2006 Varner Hidden Block, Santa Cruz Mountains. $40
2005 Varner Holly's Cuvee, Santa Cruz Mountains. $40

WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5
2006 Albiouness Stanley Ranch Pommard Selection, Carneros. $55
2006 August West Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands. $48
2007 Auteur Ophelia, Oregon and California. $38
2007 Balletto Estate, Russian River Valley. $20
2007 Bjornstad Van der Kamp, Sonoma Mountain. $40
2006 Brokenwood, Beechworth, Australia. $25
2000 Clos Saron, Sierra Foothills. $n/a
2007 Coterie Saralee's Vineyard, Russian River Valley. $28
2006 Derby, Central Coast. $42
2007 Hirsch Bohan Dillon, Sonoma Coast. $40
2006 Inman Family Vineyards, Russian River Valley. $45
2006 Kendrick, Marin County. $33
2007 Ladd, Sonoma Coast. $32
2007 Ladd, Russian River Valley. $32
2007 Ladd Cuvee Abigail, Russian River Valley. $??
2007 Le Cadeu Cote Est, Oregon. $47
2005 Louis Latour Chanfleure Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France. $15
2003 Michaud, Chalone. $n/a
2005 Michaud, Chalone. $35
2007 Olsen Ogden, Sonoma Coast. $42
2007 Olsen Ogden, Russian River Valley. $$32
2006 Olsen Ogden, Russian River Valley. $32
2006 Penfolds Cellar Reserve, Adelaide Hills, Australia. $45
2007 Perception, Russian River Valley. $42
2007 Spell Barton, Russian River Valley. $47
2005 Springvale, Tazmania. $29

WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5
2006 Le Cadeu Cote Est, Oregon. $47
2006 Mayro Murdick, Carneros. $35
2004 Tamar Ridge, Tazmania. $27

Land Speculator: I'll 'never' $ay Die

Sat, 04 Jul 2009 08:07:41 GMT

Neverland's fate is in the hands of a billionaire real-estate genius who purchased the rundown property just this year.

Climate change

Fri, 19 Jun 2009 13:00:00 GMT

Professor Gregory Jones explains the background and consequences to changes in the world's climate and its impact on wine making in the future.

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A chardonnay revival

Sat, 04 Jul 2009 08:12:31 GMT

I guess white wine is on many people's minds these days as I have received more than a dozen letters over the last month asking for recommendations about "summery" white wines.

Champagne Roederer: winemaker

Tue, 28 Oct 2008 01:59:01 GMT

Champagne: production and techniques

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Grandma's Fourth of July in land of opportunity

Sat, 04 Jul 2009 08:12:34 GMT

The summer sky was barely turning light as I jumped out of bed, recognizing the banging sounds that awakened the neighborhood each Fourth of July.

Creating Champagne: Bruno Paillard

Thu, 20 Mar 2008 05:59:01 GMT

Champagne: production and techniques-assemblage II

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Last-minute bookings fill up Aspen hotels for t...

Sat, 04 Jul 2009 08:16:14 GMT

If only the rest of the summer could match the past two weeks. Aspen's hotels and lodges are full, or nearly so, for the Fourth of July weekend.

Champagne: the assemblage explained

Fri, 01 Feb 2008 05:59:01 GMT

Champagne: production and techniques. Assemblage.

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Establishment of the Upper Mississippi River Valley Viticultural Area

Fri, 26 Jun 2009 05:17:54 GMT

Collecting Q&A: 1975 Dom Pérignon's value (Wine Spectator)

Thu, 02 Jul 2009 04:00:00 GMT

Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau. Report on Wine

Mon, 29 Jun 2009 07:59:20 GMT

Ask Dr. Vinny (Wine Spectator)

Wed, 01 Jul 2009 04:00:00 GMT

What's the main grape variety in Loire wines?

10th VinAgora International Wine Competition

Mon, 29 Jun 2009 08:04:44 GMT

Ask Dr. Vinny (Wine Spectator)

Mon, 29 Jun 2009 04:00:00 GMT

I've had some pretty lousy wine in the past, but how would I know if I were tasting a wine that had truly "turned"?

New AWBC Chief Executive appointed

Mon, 29 Jun 2009 08:15:27 GMT

Ask Dr. Vinny (Wine Spectator)

Fri, 26 Jun 2009 04:00:00 GMT

What does the term "garrigue" mean in reference to wine flavors?